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The story of Devils Tower reveals how naming a place is never neutral. It carries the weight of history and identity, challenging our understanding of beliefs and belonging.
This is the transcript for a podcast episode from Dr. James Schaap's Small Wonders, a series of historical vignettes about regional history for KWIT/KOIA public radio in Sioux City, Iowa. It was originally published on June 21, 2021. To listen, download the.
Look, if anything in the vast Powder River neighborhood鈥攐ut there just beyond the Black Hills鈥攊f anything merits the word "monumental," it's this thumb-like, mile-high monolith called Devils Tower. It rises out of nowhere, a dinosaur-sized whatchamacallit that long ago shook off the apostrophe meant to indicate the Devil鈥檚 ownership. With or without punctuation, this heavyweight protuberance deserves the title it鈥檚 been given. When you come up on it early, when the thing is perfectly dark, even in a background of glowing morning sky, that this thing belongs somehow to the Devil seems wholly legit.
But for the record, there is no apostrophe鈥攐fficially, no. That little symbol of possession got itself erased long ago for good spiritual reasons, or so one might infer. Historians say that white men misinterpreted the Native folks who told them the place was called 鈥淏ad God鈥檚 Tower,鈥 which got translated as Devils Tower, a tower of the Devil, which isn鈥檛 exactly a name that鈥檚 comfy.
When I was a kid, my good, pious family tented across America. I had no clue what Devils Tower was, but when we stopped, all that piety made the name of the place strike fear. Even my parents had trouble saying, "the Devil's Tower" because the Devil was real gent. That this thing was the property of Satan increased the inky evil all around.
Devils Tower hasn't changed, but I'm a good deal less pious. So after coming up close in semi-darkness, down the road I went, all that massive magma in my rear view mirror. The icy road demanded my attention, but when I finally glanced back for a moment, voila!鈥攃aught in the sunrise, it didn鈥檛 seem in the least demonic.
But then, that its name remains a little elusive is a good thing, because no geologist can say for sure how or why it鈥檚 even here. Theories abound, and you can study perfectly reasonable explanations.
In the last few decades, the name of this marvelous beast has been the subject of a devil of a fight between Native folks and others who are, to say the least, not particularly fond of change, the kind of people who deplored the indecency of indoor plumbing maybe. Since some white guy had done a weak translation originally, Native folks searched out origins and made a strong case for an official name change.
But before we start naming, remember that Devils Tower is America's very first National Monument, designated as such by Teddy Roosevelt, a president who was just as stumpy as the Tower, the patron saint of America's Western heritage. That T. R. himself called it the Devils Tower is reason enough to stick with the old ways.
And then there鈥檚 this: no matter how you get there, Devils Tower is not to be trifled with. It鈥檚 gargantuan, a huge protuberance you simply can鈥檛 dabble with.
Still, long, long before T. R. baptized it into the fellowship he was creating out west, it already had a name. The earliest sources鈥攁ll Native--are more than a little vague and lingually ambiguous: "Bear's House" or "Bear's Lodge,鈥 "Bear's Tipi,鈥 "Home of the Bear,鈥 "Bear's Lair,鈥 or, like Soldier鈥檚 Field, 鈥淗ome of Bears.鈥 The Kiowas called it "Aloft on a Rock,鈥 others called it "Tree Rock" or "Great Gray Horn.鈥 Lakotas called it "Brown Buffalo Horn.鈥 The list is endless.
For the record, both Kiowa and Sioux once believed that when a couple of girls, out and about, were spotted by a bear, they climbed a big rock and fell into prayer for deliverance. In a moment, they were aboard a monster that kept growing and growing until they were safe from being supper.
In 2008, the tribes got together and settled on Bear Lodge National Historic Landmark, but the locals and their political buddies were just too strong so it鈥檚 still Devils Tower (no apostrophe). Stay tuned. Things do change, even out here.
But then, that its name remains a little elusive is a good thing, because no geologist can say for sure how or why it鈥檚 even here. Theories abound, and you can study perfectly reasonable explanations. But no one knows for certain.
From miles away that huge thing looms up like a scary giant fist. Really scary. Let me unleash a cliche on you: if you get out into northeastern Wyoming, don鈥檛 miss it.
Well, you can鈥檛 really. If it gets terribly scary, just pray. Trust me, you won鈥檛 be the first.
Podcasts of these and other stories from the collection, read by the author, can also be found on the station's by entering Professor Schaap's name in the search field.
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